Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) |

For regular cleaning, use a cloth or sponge with your favorite non-abrasive household cleaner. Most cleaners will work very well with your Onyx product. The two most important aspects of cleaning are the hardness of the water and the frequency of cleaning. We recommend applying a protective / polishing product like
Gel-Gloss™ after each cleaning. These products will continually make cleaning the shower easier because of the protective polish they leave on the Onyx product. Once again, avoid using abrasive household cleaners - if a cleaning product feels "gritty," please do not use it.
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• Eliminate® is a shower cleaner that works well on everyday soap spots, calcium, and hard water spots.
• The 25 oz. size bottle comes with a foaming sprayer.
• Works well for Onyx showers and lavatories, shower door glass, tile, and bathtubs. |
Material Safety Data Sheet |
Material Safety Data Sheet |
• Repel/Ultra Glass are Surface Sealers and Protectors which work well on Onyx showers, lavatories, and shower doors (they also have some cleaning properties, but are mainly surface protectors.)
• Repel/Ultra Glass helps water bead off surfaces quickly, reducing water spots and making cleaning easier.
• 25 ounce bottles with spray nozzles. |
Tip: To break up hard water/soap film deposits on your Onyx products, we also recommend a 50/50 white vinegar/water mix solution.
Non-abrasive kitchen dish washing soap can also break up these deposits. ...read more about cleaning... |
Here are my thoughts on the cleaning problems we face in the Midwest. Probably far more than you really want to know.
I'll cover several topics including mildew, hard water and soap buildup. Also making some suggestions on waxes to reduce these problems and make general cleaning easier.
1) White vinegar works great for all three problems. Vinegar is a natural safe product. The acid will dissolve limestone, removes soap scum, and kill mildew. Vinegar can't harm the metal products in your bath. White vinegar also works well on shower doors. They really shine.
2) Water without soap will also fairly quickly dissolve limestone. Limestone is soluble in water--that's how it got there.
The water evaporated leaving the limestone. Water will dissolve and reabsorb the limestone.
3) Water also dissolves soap fairly well.
4) Exhaust fans change the air allowing water to evaporate faster. Unfortunately, limestone and soap remain whether water evaporates fast or slow.
5) Eliminating moisture faster may slow the growth of mildew--but not much.
6) Mildew is a parasite fungi needing a little moisture, but mainly something to "eat". Soap (basically a salt of fat acids) is "food"
for mildew. The acid in vinegar dissolves soap salt. Water also dissolves soap salts. This is why we do a final, water only, rinse
on clothing.
7) Latex caulk and soap residue both hold moisture and provide "food" for mildew. (People who label and sell latex caulk as a product for moist areas do a real disservice.) Never use latex caulk for anything is my recommendation.
8) A brief clean water rinse will take care of most soap, mildew and water penetration problems.
9) Pledge®, Gel-Gloss™ and other products with a good wax base cause water to flow more quickly and thoroughly to the drain and make cleaning easier. This is like hitting the wax button ever so often at the car wash. Getting some good reports from customers using Rain-X®. We tried it with good success in our shop. But, don't spray it on too thick.
10) Both a clean water rinse and a wipe down--neither of which is practical--are the only way to completely eliminate all problems.
Cleaning products are a very big industry. Most bath cleaners are 2.5% to 6% citric acid (essentially expensive diluted vinegar).
Dilute white vinegar 50-50 with water and you have as good a bath cleaner as any on the market.
A few are even dangerous to use in my opinion. Read the label on a new cleaner recently. I believe the active ingredients actually produced hydrochloric acid! Fortunately the active ingredients were only 0.22%. The remaining 99.78% actually did nothing.
A higher percentage could tarnish the metal shower fixtures.
Any non abrasive cleaner will work on our products and on the 100% silicone we sent. Colors are suspended in the product and in the silicone--so colors won't be affected. It is virtually impossible to stain the gloss finish. If you have our matte finish, I'd use one of
the wax products mentioned above a little more frequently.
Hope this helps. Please let me know your results. Appreciate all feedback.
Be glad to answer any other questions.
Thanks, Bob

63% of our products is a hydrate crystal--Al2O3+3H2O. Alumina is also the main ingredient in Corian and all "solid surface" products.The main ingredient in our product is (alumina trihydrate). Our other 37% is a special polyester resin we developed over the last 30 plus years.
Our resin does not contain any urea formaldehyde. READ MORE
All Onyx material can easily be cut notched or trimmed with standard woodworking tools, to achieve a custom fit. Woodcutting tools such as jigsaws and circular saws with a fine to medium tooth finish blade work best for cutting. A belt sander works great for minor modifications. Here is a
link to a skill saw and a belt sander cutting / trimming a wall panel.
We have many dealers in most areas of the United States. Some have displays and some do not. To get a quote, please contact an Onyx dealer. Here is a map of
Onyx dealers near you. Please contact us or call us at 1-800-669-9867 for information or any questions you may have.
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In 1985 we decided that we would concentrate on making the products and let someone else sell and install.
We still believe it is best to focus on the manufacturing and delivery of the products, and referring local dealers as the best means to see the products and get pricing.
We aren't set up to sell direct.
No salesmen or rep firm and a zero advertising budget.
No sign on our building and we don't even have signs on our delivery trucks!
This lets us concentrate on trying to cast and finish better products more efficiently.
In most areas, we can refer homeowners to someone who sells, or who does both sales and installation--depending on their needs.
Thanks, Bob .
The best way to remove excessive silicone is friction. You could use your thumb, credit card, or even a flattened Popsicle stick. If you prefer, you can purchase a
mini plastic scraper, (available at hardware stores) There is also a product called
Goo Gone that will help remove the adhesives qualities of the silicone. You will need to apply it and then use your thumb, credit card, flattened Popsicle stick or mini scraper to work the edge to get underneath. For a more industrial strength product, you could try a product called
DSR-5.